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Pools at base of Cookie Jar
Elevation 3675 |
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April 24 – 25, 2008 -Hikers: Mike and Janna O’Loughlin (MoJo)
Buckskin Gulch / Paria Canyon |
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(Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness Area)
2-day hike; 21 miles
BLM permit required to overnight in the canyon (www.az.blm.gov/paria).
FLASH FLOODS ARE COMMON SO DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS HIKE IF
THERE IS RAIN IN THE FORECAST. FOR CURRENT CONDITIONS CALL THE KANAB
RESOURCE AREA, BLM 435.644.2672.
The Buckskin Gulch is located approx. 30 miles west of Page and 8 miles
south of Hwy 89. |
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This is a DIFFICULT hike due to the distance and the agility
required to navigate water/mud pools and descend by rope down a 15 ft smooth
face boulder. However, this hike can be scaled down to a day hike and would
be fairly easy for the whole family by hiking a couple of hours in & out
from Wire Pass. (Day hikes do not require BLM permit).
Another pertinent bit of information before you get started is that the
saying “Take only pictures and leave only footprints” definitely applies.
That means all trash and human waste must be packed out.
(The RED LINE on the map is our route). |
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The Buckskin narrows extend almost uninterrupted for over 12
miles with the widest part seldom exceeding 20 feet. You may have hiked
slots before, but walking through the towering dark canyon walls offers a
truly unique experience.
We chose to begin the hike from Wire Pass & conclude at Whitehouse. The 15
ft obstacle mentioned above is best overcome if climbing down rather than
up. Also, hiking out on Day-2 you will have the sun at your back. We parked
our car (BLM permit needed for car) at Whitehouse and arranged for a shuttle
service to take us to Wire Pass ($75). The optimal solution would be to hike
as a group and use two cars.
(You follow this wash to the slot entrance).
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DAY 1 – (13 miles). (You may begin the hike from the
Buckskin trailhead, but that will add an additional 2.8 miles). We were on
the trail by 7am. The trail is very easy to follow, just stay in the sandy
bottom of the wash as it descends eastward. Half an hour from the trailhead
you’ll experience your first slots through Wire Pass. There are two slot
sections of Wire Pass. As you come to the confluence of Wire Pass as it
meets the Buckskin be sure to go to the right.
(This is the slot entrance to the Buckskin). |
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For the most part, the bottom of the Buckskin is flat with occasional
sections of boulders. We waded through only two thigh deep pools. However,
we’ve read accounts from other hikers on the Internet who experienced waist
deep mud and stagnant pools of water through most of the canyon. So, keep
that in mind when selecting your hike date.
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Our reading indicated that rattlesnakes are very common and
we could probably expect to see one or two, but the only live animals we saw
were lizards, birds, rabbits and antelope squirrel. We did see a dead
coyote. He must have fallen from above.
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About mid way through the canyon you will notice the walls
getting much lower; soon you’ll break out into the sunlight – this section
is called, Middle Trail, the rim is only 100 ft. above the canyon floor.
This area offers a route to climb to the top of the north rim. If you don’t
have a permit to camp in the canyon you may use this climb out as an
alternative campsite. But know that it is not a trail; it’s a hard climb
out. |
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After Middle Trail the narrows close in again and about four miles along
you’ll hit the rock jam; Buckskin’s most serious obstacle. You’ll need a
rope to climb down safely. We found a rope already in place, but I wouldn’t
count on that always being there; BLM rangers regularly cut away ropes that
appear to be unsafe.
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A little more than a mile below the rock jam you come to a
grove of maple and boxelder trees growing in the sand deposit above the
streambed. This is a huge welcome site because this is home for the night.
As you pack your water, be sure to plan on extra water to wash the mud off
your feet before you climb into your sleeping bag. |
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DAY 2 – (8 miles). From the campsite it’s about a 10 minute
walk to the confluence of the Paria River. For me, this was the most awesome
moment of the trip. Standing in the middle of the junction of three canyons
(Buckskin, No Paria, So Paria) was a heart stopping event... it takes your
breath away. Towering canyon walls, 100's of feet straight up and you are
standing on the canyon floor with only a sliver of sky above…. Kind’a gives
you a sense of your own insignificance in the grand scheme of the universe.
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You don’t want to make a wrong turn here; south is 30 miles
to Lee’s Ferry and north is 7.5 miles to Whitehouse and trails end. |
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Within the first mile after the confluence you’ll find the
next point of interest – Slide Rock.
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Past slide rock the canyon widens and you’ll find you’re now
hiking in a desert wash. The scenery for the balance of the hike is the same
Navajo Sandstone formations you are familiar seeing at Lake Powell. |
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I never thought an out-house could look so good…. After 21
miles, I couldn’t have been more elated had it have been the Ritz.
In addition to the beguiling Buckskin, this hike offers ruins and
petroglyphs. For more information please refer to Kelsey’s 5th edition of
Canyon Hiking Guide to the Colorado Plateau. Canyonhiker is happy to offer
his first hand knowledge and expertise. If you care to see more of our pics,
just drop us an email.
We also found the following websites helpful:
http://www.americansouthwest.net/slot_canyons/
buckskin_gulch/trail_description.html
http://www.utahtrails.com/Buckskin.html
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April 2008 - Dan Staples
Easy Hikes Near Bullfrog
Lake Elevation 3590 |
| Bullfrog Campground to Old Ferry Dock
DIRECTIONS: As you arrive in Bullfrog, the campground is directly across
from the Sinclair station. At the far end of Loop B you will find the
hike sign with the walker in white on a brown
background.
The hike is about a half mile and has a couple of places where the trail
splits and then comes back together so you can do the different portion of
the splits going and coming. The trail is lined by stones much of the way
and has stone cairns on the portions on rock.
There are a couple of places where you have to scramble a bit but you can
walk around them easy enough. A quick and easy trail with typical scenery.
Pedestal Alley Trail:
DIRECTIONS: Leaving Bullfrog, just after you leave the Recreation Area
gates, you see a rode leading to Escalante and Burr Trail. About 6 miles
down that paved road, you see the Pedestal Alley trailhead sign and a small
parking area on the other side of the road.
The trail is mostly flat for about half a mile out. There are a few balanced
rocks and the way is marked by stone cairns that take a bit of looking at
times.
Novice hikers should pay a little attention as the trail winds a bit
around terrain features that can be confusing on return. Watch your own
footsteps coming back if you can, otherwise take note of the rocks and
ridges as you go over harder terrain on the way out.
There is one small area where you have to scramble just the tiniest bit.
Easier trail with a nice spot at the end that seems miles from anywhere. |
Hiker: Jeannine Bulot, Albuquerque, NM
- Rincon Overlook- Water Level 3569
Easy to Moderate hike: 3 miles R/T |
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The Rincon Overlook. date:05/15/05, Water level 3569
The Rincon overlook is an easy hike up the slickrock slope to a great
overlook of the lake and Rincon. The slope reaches water level across and
slightly uplake from Iceberg Canyon. (GPS: 37 20'11"N,
110 46'04"W)We found a cove to beach the boat then hiked up the
slickrock, steering to the west, the lake on out left and the waterpocket
fold on our right. |
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We stayed close to the lake as we got higher, eventually
reaching a high point with a great view of the Rincon across the lake to the
south. (GPS: 37 20'23"N, 110 47'46"W) The hike
is about 3 miles round trip but can easily be made longer by exploring the
area.
Slope leading up to Overlook.
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September 7, 2007 - Hikers: Mike & Janna
O’Loughlin (MoJo)
Hike distance: 4 miles R/T – Easy Hike Smith Fork Slot Canyon Hike --
Buoy M106 - Water elevation 3603 – |
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Caution: Do not pursue this hike without first checking the regional weather
forecast. Plateau drainage may affect the slot canyon by flash flooding.
(Take a look at Kelly’s posting on YouTube [kkbrooks7] it inspired us to
take this hike).
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I rated this hike as EASY. It’s a walking hike with minimal elevation rise
and it is shaded most of the way. We’ve noted a GPS reading (below) for the
slot entrance, but you really won’t need it or cairns either – just stay in
the stream bed. You do not need hiking boots; river shoes are best. There is
only one area requiring any agility – you have to climb over fallen rocks
obstructing the stream – this comes up within the first mile of the hike.
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You should have no problem finding a place to anchor your boat. Even when
the water rises 25’ there appears to be ample beach access. We boat camped
about 100 yards away and used Mini Mo to ferry us to the trail head – (to
the right in the picture).
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Because of the receding water the first part of the hike was
in slick mud. The canyon stream is actively fed by underground springs. The
slots & side canyons were dry except for pooled water
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The one mile mark puts you at a peaceful & colorful
amphitheatre.
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Another ¼ - ½ mile or so you’ll see this distinctive landmark. This is the
confluence of Smith Fork (straight ahead) & a side drainage (right).
Exploring this side canyon is a must see.
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If you’re packing a picnic lunch, time your hike to
rendezvous here, either before the slots or on your return, it’s only 100
yards off the main hiking trail. |
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Entrance to the slots: GPS N37.36.140 W110.38.208
Looking at the picture, to the immediate right is a second confluence of
side drainage. We walked up about 75 yards & took a few pictures but didn’t
go further. Some really adventurous person might prove this area to be quite
interesting.
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Smith Fork slots have beautiful tapestries of rich dark reds
& blacks. In his book, Boater’s Guide to Lake Powell, Kelsey describes this
hike as “one of the premier narrow or slot canyon hikes in his book”. As you
continue up the main drainage, Kelsey goes on to say “you’ll find some of
the best narrows on Lake Powell”. |
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Should you be worried about claustrophobia, I doubt that
these slots will give you a problem; you can always stretch your arms out
side to side. If you are looking for the “tight squeeze” slots I recommend
Labyrinth Canyon. |
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Depending on the season you may find water in the pool. This
day the water was about knee deep. |
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You can hike out to the top if you don’t mind doing a little rock climbing.
Kelsey tells us that these granite-type boulders came all the way down from
Mt. Ellsworth to the north. Think about it – that would take some mighty
flash flooding!
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Kids will think this hike is AWESOME!!! |
September 15, 2007 - Hikers: Wayne and Charlene Gustaveson,
Carlos and Raquel Dibble
Water Elevation: 3,602.
Hike distance: approx. 1/2 mile
Geologic Feature: Plunge pools and alcoves in "Eureka Canyon"
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September 14, 2007 - Hikers: Wayne and Charlene Gustaveson,
Carlos and Raquel Dibble
Water Elevation: 3,602.
Hike distance: approx. 100 yards
Geologic Feature: Pelvic Arch |

Dr Carlos Dibble and Dr Raquel Dibble
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We were in the Escalante River viewing Cathedral in the
Desert and then moved on to Davis Gulch to see La Gorce Arch. On the
way in, within 200 yards of the white Davis Gulch marker buoy, I glimpsed a
possible small arch in a rock wash on the right side of channel. Upon
further investigation we found it was indeed an arch that looked like
a "bow tie" from the lake.
I wanted to name it Bow Tie Arch but the two OB GYN doctors with us said
it looked more like a pelvic arch. So we went with that. Note
the arch in this picture on the left about elbow high. |
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We scrambled up the slick rock and we able to get a good
photo of the arch feature from above. It is only possible to get into
the rock ravine with a rope and then with someone to man the rope and pull
you out.
The arch stands about 8 feet high. Many plunge pools line the creek
bottom. One is completely full of round cobble rocks, others are
empty. |
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Looking down on Pelvic Arch from the slick rock fin above.
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View from above the arch looking back on the short walk to
the boat.
This is a good quick trip for fun viewing on the way to La Gorch Arch and
hiking further in Davis Gulch. |
June 16, 2007 - Hikers: Mitch and Kevin Lanyon from Cahone,
Colorado
Lake Elevation: 3,611.05
Temperature: 100 degrees
Hike distance: approx. 1.3 miles
Geologic Feature: Hall's Creek Bay Arch
I've also seen this one referred to as Baker Ranch Natural Bridge. |
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My son Mitch and I recently made the hike to Hall's Creek
Bay Arch and wanted to share the details with your readers.
GPS N 37 30.058' W110 47.215'
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This hike was a short one for me and I would consider it
"mild". However, we hike a lot and we're in reasonably good shape. So, due
to the heat, change in elevation and terrain, I'm going to err on the side
of caution and call it moderate. As I said, this is a fairly short hike and
well worth the effort. It took us about 4 hours but we stop a lot to check
things out and take photos. Remember to take plenty of water!!!
This arch is very difficult to spot from the lake but it can be done
depending on your vantage point and if you know right where to look. Come
into Hall's Creek Bay and work your way to the far end. Look for a "finger"
on the left that goes back in quite a way. If you have a GPS this will be a
much easier task. The finger is just past a couple of huge rock structures
right at water's edge. You should have no problem finding a spot to beach
your boat.
Photo 2 shows the route that we took. There are no cairns but you won't need
them. You're going to walk along the top edge of the drainage. The right
side is the easiest. Stay out of the drainage. It's a total jungle in places
and you'll eventually come to huge cliff. You won't be able to climb out and
you'll have to back track to get out.
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You won't need a rope but we always carry hiking sticks and
find them very handy. Other normal hiking gear is recommended e.g. boots,
hat that provides shade, a knife or leatherman tool etc. Also, be sure to
let some folks know where you'll be in case you become injured or lost.
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Photos 3, 4, 5 & 6
GPS N 37 29.776' W 110 47.715'
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We took a short break here. We peaked into the drainage to
check things out and found this beautiful water fall. I was surprised to see
so much water in the middle of June. Make the effort to stop and find this
spot. It's drop dead gorgeous and well worth it.
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GPS N 37 29.633' W 110 48.283'
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You're almost there at this point. Photo 7 shows a shot of
Mitch up on the rim. |
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Photo 8 shows the cliff I spoke of and why you don't want to
be down in the drainage. There is where you'd have to turn back if you were
down in the bottom. |
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Photo 9 shows Mitch with a small diameter plunge pool. This
one is more than 6 feet deep. Continue on staying on the edge of the
drainage. You'll go up and around the corner and the arch will appear. You
can't miss it.
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Photos 10, 11 & 12
GPS N 37 29.587' W 110 48.495'
This is it! As you can see the arch is quite high and comes down to a
beautiful plunge pool. You can hike up and get around to the back side. I'd
suggest taking the left side but it's steep as well so be careful. There is
no book or journal to sign your name. Some people carve up the rock. I'm not
into that. Just tag this one in your personal journal and call it good.
That's it. Have a great hike. Take your time and enjoy the sights along the
way. It may look like a bunch of desolate rock but take a closer look and
you'll be fascinated I guarantee it!!!
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April 7, 2007 - Mike and Janna O'Loughlin (MoJo)
Lake Elevation: 3599
Jacks Arch -Mouth of San
Juan |
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Mike and Janna hiked Jack’s Arch on April 7, 2007. The water
level was 3599. The hike to Jack’s Arch begins in Confluence Cove. This cove
is not always labeled on all maps; it is the first canyon on the left as the
mouth of the San Juan flows into the main channel. You shouldn’t have any
problem beaching your boat at the back of the cove, (just stay on the right
side).
I suggest you start your hike early in the morning because you will be
hiking along the east canyon wall and you will have shade all morning.
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Begin the hike by following the stream bed. |
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An added bonus is after only hiking approximately 50 yards you see this
alcove, which is actually an arch in the making. |
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As you hike, keep the canyon wall on your right. You may hike part of the
way on the slick rock or continue to follow the stream bed. It might be fun
for the kids to hike the valley and follow the deer trails. Even though
there are several trails they all lead to Jack’s Arch. The cool shade of the
arch alcove seems to be a gathering spot for deer |
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If you are following the valley, the brush does get thick. |
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After the first rise in elevation, you have a beautiful view
of the cove and you can see Navajo Butte in the background. |
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You probably won't need them, but look for the cairns for
directions. |
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Jack's Arch is not a rim arch so don't look up high. You'll
find it where the canyon wall meets the valley. |
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Guaranteed! You’ll be thrilled when you find it! |
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The truly unique feature of Jack’s Arch is that in another
10,000 years or however long it takes to make an arch, Jack’s will be two
side by side bridge arches. Maybe then “they” will change the name to Jack &
Jill Arches. |
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Don’t forget to take your picture. |
October 7, 2006 - Mike and Janna O'Loughlin (MoJo)
Lake Elevation: 3602
Peekaboo Arch - San Juan |
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Mike and Janna O'Loughlin (MoJo) hiked Peekaboo Arch on Oct 7, 2006.
We're happy to share our perspective and experience with you. Peekaboo is
a rim arch found along the San Juan arm just past Deep Canyon. The 4.2
mile R/T hike will take you between 4-5 hours and has a terrain rise of
880 feet. I highly recommend standard hiking boots rather than your river
sandals. Also, pack along your normal hiking gear (water, hat,
sunscreen... we found a rope came in handy). You'll find a log journal in
the bowl of the arch so all those successful can tag their victory. Two
other hikers I offer as reference guides are Tony Ferris and Alan
Silverstein, without their information we could not have made the hike.
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GPS N37 11.051 W110 45.110
Beach your boat here.
Start the hike by walking east up the wash about 30-50 yards. Turn
right/south and head for the ridge. You'll be able to find your own
passage way up the ridge. At the top, mark your waypoint (or use cairn) -
you'll want to be able to find it on the return.
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GPS N37 10.965 W110 45.018
Once on top you should be about here.
Head east, the terrain is mostly flat.
Walk to the south of the base of these mountains.
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This is the view looking south towards Navajo Mountain.
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GPS N37 10.855 W110 44.393
You'll start your switchback up this rocky ridge. There are cairns along
the way and you'll be able to recognize a trail if you look for it. The
GPS is the approximate location of the first cairn.
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GPS N37 11.029 W110 44.377
View from the top.
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From the top of this 2nd ridge you'll skirt back to the left/west for
about 70 yards before heading north. This is the view to the north.
You'll recognize and follow a sheep/deer trail most of the way before your
next course change back to the east.
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GPS N37 11.447 W110 44.224
When you make the turn back to the east you'll cross over two slick rock
ridges. Look for the cairns.
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View from the top -- you're almost there.
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Look for the Flintstones back door. Climb down into the water hole and
enter the arch through the "back door". The day we made the hike the
water hole was full of water (day after the "Big Flood of Oct 2006"). We
couldn't get in. So, please sign our names in proxy!
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GPS N37 11.491 W110 43.874
You made it!! Congratulations!!!
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October 5, 2006 - Joan Terao
Lake Elevation: 3601
Dry Rock
Creek |
October 1, 2006 - Wayne Gustaveson
Lake Elevation: 3601
Oak Creek Canyon accessed
from Oak Bay |
When
fishing is slow I sometimes hike. I have to admit I haven't had much
time for hiking the past few years because the fishing is awesome. I caught
these two in sight of the floating restroom in Oak Bay. We camped
around the corner in the mouth of Oak Canyon where we decided to hike the
next morning. Boat to the lake end and hike up the small stream bed. |
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